Sacre-Coeur

It was actually 85deg here on saturday.  So I could not pass up what I fear would be the last hot day of the season.  So in my self-guided fashion I grabbed my camera and off I went.  Looking at my map, I thought it would be a far walk, but luckily for me, these guide books aren't drawn to scale.  After a 15 min walk (sadly, it was mostly up hill), I found myself at the 2nd highest point in Paris: the beautiful church of Sacré-Coeur.

Sacré-Coeur; Commissioned in atonement for the deaths in the Franco-Prussian war, priests still work to maintain constant prayer for those lost in war

I ventured inside, nearly swept by the tide of camera toters (oh wait, that includes me).  There was actually a service in progress, and they politely requested no photography but I figured they wouldn't mind if i did a video recording.  I was trying to be incognito, so unfortunately, the video is choppy and blurry, perhaps I'm being punished...  I don't know how anyone can get in the mind frame of worship with random people milling about.  But thankfully they didn't mind my presence.  Random: they actually had machines that sold souvenir tokens, kinda like the pressed penny at the zoo.

You probably can't tell from the pic, but this place was pretty packed, by tourist as well as locals.  For a moment I kinda had a Taste of Chicago feeling with people swarming all around, most of them ruining my shots (grr).  Thankful, I entered at the top of the hill so going down the 200+ stairs was a cinch...almost.  But there are multiple landings and grassy knolls to give you time to catch your breath.  

It is kinda cool how the city is built right up to the base of this church.  One moment you're walking down the cobblestoned street passing cafes and shops, and the minute next you are in the shadow of this bleach-white stone beautiful building, where on a clear day you can see for miles.

Soup, soup...and more soup

I think you're starting to see the trend: we are learning soups first.  I guess thats an easy way to start.  Essentially we are learning knife skills because every soup/potage so far has like 5-6 different vegetables.  and the cuts are some small.  I'm talking 1-2 mm!  Thankfully I haven't cut myself yet.  Others have not been so lucky.  Chef calls demo and lets say someone has one cut, by the next demo the same person has like 3 cuts!  too bad.  I'm pretty good with the knife, but still scared of it.  let's call it respect.  I haven't gotten to the point where the knife is up against my knuckles with each cut, but i'll get there.

Here is my week of soups:

Soupe au Pistou (pesto)

This next soup was pretty intense because today was the first day of julienned veggies.  we started with a mandolin (the really scary guillotine looking device for making really thin slices) and then had to make 1-2mm slices from that. (p.s. i would love the metric system if i didn't grow up in america.  so now, even though it make sense, I have to convert back to the US system)  these beautifully cut slices were only used for garnish!  Waste of time?

Mix of Potage Julienne Darblay and Vichyssoise

One was from the green of leeks, the other from the white

There should be a picture here of my Potage Saint Germain aux Croutons...but this is just a fancy way of saying SPLIT PEA SOUP. I can't get away from the stuff! I tasted one spoon just to check the seasoning before I presented to Chef Sébastien. But that was it. I did not even take of picture. Ich!

Sorry to those with weak stomachs, but we made fish soup and I had to gut and cut my own fish and soft shelled crab. Thankfully, I have no problem with the yucky stuff. Years of science labs followed by years in the OR, I have seen just about everything. I heard a few gags across the room but we all will get used to it. I had to use my giant cleaver to cut and I kept closing my eyes! I guess I was trying to keep the bits from flying into my eyes but I forgot how much i love my fingers! Some bits did fly into my mouth, but oh well.

Unfortunately, my uniform smells awful now and has blood stains, and the French are just catching on to the idea of bleach so i'm still scrubbing and soaking trying to get it clean. I thought I would love this soup, thought it would be something like lobster bisque. But the potato leek was actually my favorite. One of the fish had moderately poisonous fins (which I can't remember if I cut off) and we blended everything including scales, bones, and shells. So basically a wannabe-smooth-but-still-sandy texture.

Soupe de poisson (fish)
or as I like to call it, Poisonous Sand soup

I did not get to present this soup because Chef called time when I finally made it to the blender. At least five of us missed out because we all start to cook at the same time, so we are done at about the same time, so there is a line for limited equipment like the blenders. At least 4 others didn't present either so at least I wasn't alone. But I gotta figure out how not to be last in line for next time.

Tarte aux Pommes

As a cuisine student, I also have courses in pastry, wine appreciation (which is pretty serious here seeing how the french drink the most per capita in the world), history, theory, and french (mostly tailored to understand orders my chef will bark at me during my stage). I love that we learn a little of everything. 

Every monday we have pâtisserie with Chef Antoine.  This week: Tarte aux Pommes.  I can stop after just this class!  I can make dough, fruit compote, and even learned a lil about decoration.  I could apply these concepts to other fruits and just make pies and tartes. Of course this is the principle of everything here: learn the basics and apply them elsewhere.  I think i'm gonna love mondays.  This will be my no stress and no sweat day...

Tarte aux Pommes with caramelized apples and raspberry reduction 

Self guided tour of Montmartre

Since I didn't arrive until late Monday and class started Wednesday, I have had little to time to explore.  It rained yesterday which left me stuck in my flat (very european of me!) most of the evening.  I woke up this morning to sound of church bells ringing.  I actually thought it was very serene and beautiful, for now.  I checked my weather app and stood on the balcony a moment and decided the coast was clear.  I had better get out today or have another week of only to school and back.

http://www.monument-paris.com/image/paris-map-monuments.jpg

I live in 18th arrondissement, Montmartre, which is north west of central Paris.  Each arrondissement has its own culture, history, and vibe.  I haven't been out too much so I can't really describe it for myself yet, but its kinda touristy and cozy at the same time (actually i think thats everywhere, there is always something to see).  I'll work on that.  

Anyhoo, I live around the corner from the Cimetière de Montmartre, but the entrance is a few block away (it is technically where Moulin Rouge is on the map).  There are famous poets and artist that I've never heard of buried here, but it was still interesting to see all of the graves some elaborate, some simple but maintained with love.  Please enjoy these pics from my day amongst the dead.  (Most of the names were worn away and hard to see so i don't know who anyone is).

   
After leaving the cemetery, I thought I'd walk around and take the scenic route home.  And scenic it was!  

 I didn't realize I lived so close to the Moulin Rouge (Red Windmill). 

As I continued my journey I came across Cafe des 2 Moulin, made famous by the movie Amelie.

Not as well known, but this is Moulin de la Galette, (the second windmill of Cafe des 2 Moulin).  

Everything is beautiful here.  Going up and down hills and cobbled stone streets was not the best in slippers but I love walking, taking in the view.it was great just being surrounded by...Paris!






  

Potage Cultivateur

Thursday we all met at Bragard, a uniform shop here, to be sized and have our uniforms embroidered.  By far the most unflattering thing I have ever worn but its for a good cause.  And its HOT!  cotton polyester blend that is so thick and almost crunchy.  but it is suppose to stand up to heat and boiling liquids if i have an oopsy and spill something on myself.  On top of that we have old lady-nurse shoes that are "security" which much translate to "rock hard".  AND I have a hat (kind of a floppy baseball cap) and super long apron.  But how cool is that? My name on a chef jacket!

Did i mention the uniform was hot? Hence the poopie look on my face 

Friday was my first day of cooking!  It was kinda surreal, but already felt familiar as I dressed in my uniform and headed to the kitchen.  Side note: I might as well be back in the OR! No jewelry, nails cut short, no polish, full uniform and hair cover!    

I arrived to class 10 minutes early (if you're early, you're on time)  to begin our mise en place.  Each week someone is assigned "Chef of the Week"; it is this person's responsibility to make sure everything is in order.  That means retrieving the goods from the school's "pantry" and any and all cookware from the dishwasher and the storage shelfs in the kitchen, and evenly distributing items between the 13 students and Chef.  Thankfully, he or she can accomplish most of these task by delegating to the rest of us.  Lets just say Friday was a cluster.  We were all moving around but it was hard to accomplish simple tasks.  And after gathering items we would still be one short even though we all know we need 14 of everything.

 

This is not quite how my station is suppose to look, but its the first day

Random story: we were suppose to put most things in little containers and cover with plastic wrap.  But imagine what happens when an industrial sized roll of plastic wrap is without a cutting mechanism and you have to cover a small bowl or a small plastic cup (like the size they give you when you ask for a cup for water at a fast food place.) I knocked over my bowl of gruyere trying the "hold down with your arm and tear" method.  

Before each new recipe we are suppose to read before class.  The book is in French so no last minute preparing on the train.  But it didn't matter because Chef demo-ed everything right before we did it.  He shouts "Demo" and we all drop what we are doing and gather around his station.  Basically if you are boiling something, it is still boiling without being watched while you watch the demo.  Chef doesn't like to be ignored.  

Potage Cultivateur (avec gruyere et de baguette en tranches)

As you may have guessed, by soup was over cooked and soft (sad face) and the toaster oven thingy burns everything in the middle of the rack.  I tried to use the lighter baguette slices ones first, but i needed to use some of the burnt slices too.  (a few extra-burnt ones still on the cutting board).  The soup ingredients: butter, celery, carrots, turnips, leeks, potatoes, and cabbage (all cut paysanne, squares 1mm thick, 2-3 mm wide), pork belly, green beans and green peas, yuk!  anyone who knows me well knows i will pick every single pea out of something before I can start to eat it......alas, it was on the list so in it went.  I only added a few pinches of coarse salt, but other than that it was veggie water.  but I was starving so it was pretty good and the gruyere was one tasty bite before it all went into la poubelle (I bought tupperware today so that should never happen again)

Basically not a win for me.  And I felt like my name was the only name he knew. "Ericka" with a french accent sounds nice until you hear it followed by a criticism.  but hopefully the harder he pushes me the more prepared i will be for my stage (internship).  

Paris Beginnings

Finally, after months of planning, waiting, and second guessing, I am here in the City of Light...Paris!

After a nice bit of turbulence on the way to Stockholm, then a 3hr layover followed by a 1hr plane change due to a "technical problem" I finally arrived in Paris!  With my 3 roller suitcases and a huge Puma bag as my "personal item" I made my out of the airport.  Thankfully I met a really nice cab driver from Cameroon who actually thought I spoke French decently and had been to Paris before! HA!

I met my landlord at my apartment who have me a key big enough to lock a bank vault.  And this is just for my apartment door.  All street doors here open with a keycode so at least that's easy.

Metro Station-Guy Moquet

Yesterday, I went on my first Parisian excursion!  The closest station to my apartment does not have someone stationed there and only a machine to reload your Navigo pass.  But...I just so happen to have a Metro ticket someone gave me before I left Chicago (thanks Roxanne!)

I went to meet a new friend Anna who has been living in Paris, but is actually from Chicago.  While waiting for her I began to pace a little and figured I'd get my first shots of Paris.  I walked to the corner and just so happened to look to my right and...

Me and Notre-Dame de Paris

...Notre Dame Cathedral!  So amazing to see something in person that I have been reading about or hearing about since European history in high school.  We don't have buildings this old in America!  I am going to love being surrounded by all of this history.  

I met with some students from school to take a walking tour of the Left Bank, Latin Quarter provided by Discoverwalks.com.  I loved the tour but I won't bore you with the details because this post would be super long.  But... I did get my first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower!

La Tour Eiffel

Its small and in the distance, but its there.  More to come, trust me!

Lily, Mashav, Ze, and Caitie at Le Jardin Du Luxembourg

After my first taste of Paris, it was time for my first taste of Parisian wine!  More of that to come too, trust me!!!  Here we are sitting in the Luxembourg Garden.  

Palais du Luxembourg (home of the French Senate)

 This place is huge by the way, 224,500 m². There's a park for kids, a few tennis courts, a pond and...

...pay toilets!  Which is how it is everywhere, but this was my first time so it still tripping.  What was even worse was that it was .40 euro for women and only .20 euro for men! I might use a urinal if I'm short on change one day!

Chocolates and Tartes 

Macaroons (just for you Gina!!)

I saw all of this yummy-ness at La Grand Epicerie de Le Bon Marche.  This is a HUGE international supermarket.  These pics were of the first display case I saw when I walked in.  I would have taken more pics but I got yelled at. (kinda embarrassing, stupid American). More food pics to come though.  After all, Je suis une Chef de Cuisine!!

Last train to Paris...

Preparing for Paris was way more involved than I expected,  Hence the major lag in posts. (lag=not a single one).  Mostly because I had no idea what I was getting myself into.  So many pieces to the puzzle that took so long to get into place.  Passport, check. Visa, check.  Ticket, check.  French, not so much check. But that is so minor. Ha!  A lil french in high school, a lil online class.  Je parle assez francais, mais j'ai a apprendre beaucoup! (I think that says: I speak enough french, but I have a lot to learn)

What I'm really concerned with is packing (this is very important to me).  What to take, what to leave.  I can't figure out what to take when I go on a weekend trip.  And all those bag fees.  Geez.  So this is no time to be indecisive.  But maybe I'll just do a lot of shopping when I get there....

Everyone has been really supportive (and surprised).  "I didn't know you liked to cook!" "All the way to Paris!  Why?"  I'm still in the whirlwind myself.  I have only been planning this since Feb.  I love to cook.  And to be able to get paid to do that will be amazing!

One week of work and two weeks of Chicago left. I'm half sad, half scared, and half excited.  Ha!  Not really looking forward to saying goodbye to everyone.  One year away from my little ones will be the hardest.  I hope they don't forget me.  (sad face)  Thankfully, Skype was invented by some genius somewhere just for me!  So it won't be so bad.  Adventure awaits either way!