Sunday, September 25, 2011

Pâte à Choux

This light airy dough is used to make yummy eclairs and cream puffs.  Surprisingly, its made on stove top.  Water, salt, sugar and butter are brought to a boil.  Flour is added to the mixture and left on a simmer.  Sounds simple, but you have to stir constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent lumps and burning/sticking.  So you stir, and stir, and stir, and the soupy stuff never looks like it will thicken, but I turned my head for one second and it was as thick as paste.  Barley heating, you have to cut the dough-increase the exposed surface area-and let it cook until its dry enough not to stick to the sides of the pot.  

Pâte à Choux

Next, I put it into a piping bag to pipe onto the baking sheet in nice even mounds.  Piping this dough is not as easy as piping frosting.  Its kinda oozy which makes it hard to keep neat little circles.  But it was still fun to try to make these tasty bites.




While these baked, I julianned the zest of an orange to be candied with the rest of the group.  And I made whipped cream...by hand.  No modern technology short cuts here!  So more stirring and whisking.  I am far from ambidextrous so I had to whisk for like 5 min with only my right hand!  Feel the burn!

The dough is so light and airy that the eclairs and puffs are pretty hollow.  I cut the tops off some and filled with my not-as-whipped-as-it-could-be whipped cream.  I poked a hole in the bottom of the rest and piped in whipped cream until near explosion.  Yum!


My plating was kind rushed, but still looks appealing right?!
And the little swan was so cute...until I ate it!



Here what the Chef came up with.  Far more inspired than mine.  He definitely has a thing for flair!



Saturday, September 24, 2011

Regional Menu: Provence

In an effort to broaden our scope of French cuisine, we periodically focus on an important French region and make dishes common in that area.  Last Friday was our first menu and our first time cooking for and serving each other.  The class was broken into small groups, each responsible for a portion of the meal.  It was surprisingly calm and stress free.  Everyone did a great job and we had a tasty meal to share with each other.  

Anchoïade





For the starter, the first group prepared select veggies with an anchovy "dip" and hard boiled quail eggs.  Anchovies have a bad reputation, people (myself included) turn their nose up just at the name.  But in this form the anchovies present mostly as a salty taste.  The dip was made like a mayonnaise, with anchovy puree, crushed garlic, and olive oil.  The quail eggs were soaked in some vinegar mixture after they were de-shelled, giving this yellow color.


I don't remember the details,
but this group also made this black olive bread



Petits Farcis A La Provencale





For this dish, zucchini, onions, and tomatoes were hollowed then stuffed with lamb, pork, parmesan cheese, garlic, shallots, and mushrooms and baked in the oven giving a crunch to the top layer of stuffing.  Then plated with a chicken stock reduction and a roasted red pepper puree. The tomato was my favorite.  And every thing tasted great with red pepper puree.

 Filets de Rougets A La Crème d'Olive
 et Marjolaine, Fine Ratatouille



The group in charge of the fish course prepared broiled red mullet served on a bed of ratatouille, finely chopped bell peppers, zucchini, onions, and tomatoes, plated with reduced fish stock, and a black olive sauce.  Very tasty, and not a single scale (which, after scaling 2 foot salmon, I will never take this for granted again).  

Daube A La Provencale

This group had the best dish! I'll give one you guess why...

This is beef stew, but not like the kind I used to make in my crock pot, I wish it was that easy.  The day before, I some how got the job of cutting the beef into small pieces.  This must have been the biggest cow ever because the shoulder was massive!  I almost threw out my shoulder trying to cut it into smaller portions; it was so tough and had huge tendons running through it.  The pieces were then put in a marinade with garlic, onions, carrots, white wine, and olive oil. 

The next day we removed the beef and I seared it as the marinade simmered.  



The floating thing is called a bouquet aromatic:
chervil, thyme, and bay, tied in the green part of a leek


P.S. No matter what you "Chef" tells you, go with your gut.  We baked these explosive devices, I mean potatoes, without poking them first, because our "Chef" said we didn't need to.  So later when I poked one to check if it was done, it erupted like a volcano, spewing burning hot potato on me and the windows 5 feet away.  Later he said we should have pierced them first...seriously dude?  


One of my group partners had the wonderful task of dough making, but not to be eaten with the meal.  This one was for decorative purpose only (boo).   But another ring was used to seal the inner rim of the dutch oven to allowed the keep the moisture in the stew during the 2.5 hour cooking time.  


I also had the pleasure of using this amputation machine.  Ok, I only have a cut on my thumb but it hurt (sad face).  Making these potato chips were a labor of love.  In case you don't already know, over heating oil happens quicker than you think, but it takes FOREVER to cool.  More time than I had so these were slightly over-dark, but still so tasty.





When the stew was done, the meat was separated from everything else (again), which proved quite difficult.  It was definitely quite tender, thus frustrating difficult to separate.  The remainder was strained and the juice was poured back over the meat with black olives.  (essentially we removed the carrots, and onions don't ask me why we had to go through all of that).

Final product, plated with tomato confit (baked tomato slices), green pepper, fennel bulb, peril onions, potato puree, and the chips.

Notice the clean plates!

Sorbet Framboise avec Nougat Glace et Tuiles


My happily fed classmates!
As you can see, we are all camera happy

Last group worked in a chilled room next to the kitchen to prepare the desserts.  I don't remember much of the recipe, so this is a rough stetch.  The nougat base was meringue folded into whipped cream with dried fruit and nuts folded in next and then chilled.  The tuiles is just carameled sugar poured over chopped almonds.  Then poured onto into ovals on a silpat sheet to bake.  The ovals were then curved around a rolling pin while they cooled to get the curved shape.  The sorbet was made by boiling mineral water, mixing in glucose, a stabilizer, and sugar.  This mixture was chilled before adding raspberry puree.  And finally put in the sorbet machine.  Like any dessert, precision is key.  Specific temperatures were needed for nearly each step of these desserts.  But the final product was so yummy!

It was great to work with people I had not worked with yet, and to see how well the class as a whole can come together for a collaboration like this.   But this is only the beginning; a baby step towards working in our restaurant!  Oh, right, thats next week!

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Pâte feuilletée au beurre

I la-huv Mondays!  I was not really feeling it sunday night when I set my alarm.  I didn't feel as bad as when i would go to work, but still hated that have to be up at 6:30.  Monday morning pressed snooze a few times so I ended up running out the door (kinda typical).  I actually think i would have been on time if i did not need to wait for 3 trains!  Ok, so, I don't ever remember the L in Chicago being so pack, but that may be selective memory.  People are l-i-t-e-r-a-l-l-y  pressed against the doors.  I actually almost got caught in one as it closed the other day.  Monday when I got to the platform there was a crowd already waiting, which is never a good sign.  When the first train pulled up I went from car to car looking for a hole to squeeze into, but the doors closed before i could make my move.  The next train came and the same thing.  And people had that look like "Don't you even think about squeezing on here."  By the third train i said screw it, I have to get on!  i made some enemies but at least i was finally headed to class.

Made it to class 10 min late--go figure--but my stress and flustration (this word absolutely applies to me) was quickly mitigated.  The pastry kitchen is huge and every bench has a slab of cold marble for us to work on.  No sweating in here.  

And then came the dough...ahh.  So relaxing to work with. We use the super old school, but super awesome technique of using the marble bench, a pastry scraper, and our hands.  Todays lesson was on pâte feuilletée, puff pastry and the various applications.  We rolled the dough out 6 times with 30min rests between every other roll...Rest? In class? I'm in heaven! And the results... let me start by saying YUM.  (see submitted evidence, lol!)

Tarte Feuilletée aux Fruits
We made vanilla pudding (at least thats what it taste like, so good, didn't care what it was called) as the base/filling. We added a strip of dough as a border on each side so as it baked and puffed, it formed a valley of sorts to fill with fresh strawberries, raspberries, figs, and lime slices; yes it tastes as good as it looks!
Mille-feuille
The same dough was used for this, but we places a baking sheet on top during the first half of its backing time to prevent it from puffing.  It still has a flaky, crispy texture, as the other dessert, but obviously flat.  Three layers filled with the "pudding", strawberries and figs. YUM again.


Elephant ears
We had leftover dough so the chef suggested we make Elephant ears.  We rolled it out, sprinkled with a ton of sugar, folded in twice, and cut in thin slices.  Kind of a cross between a butter cookie and a cracker maybe.  Buttery and sweet, but flaky, not crumbly.

So rest assured, I will not shrivel up while I'm here.  No dinner, but I always have dessert!

In case you were curious, this is my mallette, knife kit.
I know the name of everything in French! (ok, like 85%)
P.S. In case you were curious, this is my mallette, knife kit, provide by the school.  I know the name of everything in French! (ok, like 85%).  There a few things that I wish I could bring from home--like my lemon zester/garlic grater, I love that thing--but all essentials are here.  Most important items: Chefs knife, paring knife, vegetable peeler, wooden spoon, and tasting spoon. 

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Sacre-Coeur


It was actually 85deg here on saturday.  So I could not pass up what I fear would be the last hot day of the season.  So in my self-guided fashion I grabbed my camera and off I went.  Looking at my map, I thought it would be a far walk, but luckily for me, these guide books aren't drawn to scale.  After a 15 min walk (sadly, it was mostly up hill), I found myself at the 2nd highest point in Paris: the beautiful church of Sacré-Coeur.
Sacré-Coeur; Commissioned in atonement for the deaths in the Franco-Prussian war, priests still work to maintain constant prayer for those lost in war
I ventured inside, nearly swept by the tide of camera toters (oh wait, that includes me).  There was actually a service in progress, and they politely requested no photography but I figured they wouldn't mind if i did a video recording.  I was trying to be incognito, so unfortunately, the video is choppy and blurry, perhaps I'm being punished...  I don't know how anyone can get in the mind frame of worship with random people milling about.  But thankfully they didn't mind my presence.  Random: they actually had machines that sold souvenir tokens, kinda like the pressed penny at the zoo.

You probably can't tell from the pic, but this place was pretty packed, by tourist as well as locals.  For a moment I kinda had a Taste of Chicago feeling with people swarming all around, most of them ruining my shots (grr).  Thankful, I entered at the top of the hill so going down the 200+ stairs was a cinch...almost.  But there are multiple landings and grassy knolls to give you time to catch your breath.  

It is kinda cool how the city is built right up to the base of this church.  One moment you're walking down the cobblestoned street passing cafes and shops, and the minute next you are in the shadow of this bleach-white stone beautiful building, where on a clear day you can see for miles.



Saturday, September 10, 2011

Soup, soup...and more soup



I think you're starting to see the trend: we are learning soups first.  I guess thats an easy way to start.  Essentially we are learning knife skills because every soup/potage so far has like 5-6 different vegetables.  and the cuts are some small.  I'm talking 1-2 mm!  Thankfully I haven't cut myself yet.  Others have not been so lucky.  Chef calls demo and lets say someone has one cut, by the next demo the same person has like 3 cuts!  too bad.  I'm pretty good with the knife, but still scared of it.  let's call it respect.  I haven't gotten to the point where the knife is up against my knuckles with each cut, but i'll get there.

Here is my week of soups:


Soupe au Pistou (pesto)
This next soup was pretty intense because today was the first day of julienned veggies.  we started with a mandolin (the really scary guillotine looking device for making really thin slices) and then had to make 1-2mm slices from that. (p.s. i would love the metric system if i didn't grow up in america.  so now, even though it make sense, I have to convert back to the US system)  these beautifully cut slices were only used for garnish!  Waste of time?


Mix of Potage Julienne Darblay and Vichyssoise
One was from the green of leeks, the other from the white

There should be a picture here of my Potage Saint Germain aux Croutons...but this is just a fancy way of saying SPLIT PEA SOUP. I can't get away from the stuff! I tasted one spoon just to check the seasoning before I presented to Chef Sébastien. But that was it. I did not even take of picture. Ich!

Sorry to those with weak stomachs, but we made fish soup and I had to gut and cut my own fish and soft shelled crab. Thankfully, I have no problem with the yucky stuff. Years of science labs followed by years in the OR, I have seen just about everything. I heard a few gags across the room but we all will get used to it. I had to use my giant cleaver to cut and I kept closing my eyes! I guess I was trying to keep the bits from flying into my eyes but I forgot how much i love my fingers! Some bits did fly into my mouth, but oh well.

Unfortunately, my uniform smells awful now and has blood stains, and the French are just catching on to the idea of bleach so i'm still scrubbing and soaking trying to get it clean. I thought I would love this soup, thought it would be something like lobster bisque. But the potato leek was actually my favorite. One of the fish had moderately poisonous fins (which I can't remember if I cut off) and we blended everything including scales, bones, and shells. So basically a wannabe-smooth-but-still-sandy texture.



Soupe de poisson (fish)
or as I like to call it, Poisonous Sand soup
I did not get to present this soup because Chef called time when I finally made it to the blender. At least five of us missed out because we all start to cook at the same time, so we are done at about the same time, so there is a line for limited equipment like the blenders. At least 4 others didn't present either so at least I wasn't alone. But I gotta figure out how not to be last in line for next time.

Tarte aux Pommes

As a cuisine student, I also have courses in pastry, wine appreciation (which is pretty serious here seeing how the french drink the most per capita in the world), history, theory, and french (mostly tailored to understand orders my chef will bark at me during my stage). I love that we learn a little of everything. 

Every monday we have pâtisserie with Chef Antoine.  This week: Tarte aux Pommes.  I can stop after just this class!  I can make dough, fruit compote, and even learned a lil about decoration.  I could apply these concepts to other fruits and just make pies and tartes. Of course this is the principle of everything here: learn the basics and apply them elsewhere.  I think i'm gonna love mondays.  This will be my no stress and no sweat day...





Tarte aux Pommes with caramelized apples and raspberry reduction 

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Self guided tour of Montmartre

Since I didn't arrive until late Monday and class started Wednesday, I have had little to time to explore.  It rained yesterday which left me stuck in my flat (very european of me!) most of the evening.  I woke up this morning to sound of church bells ringing.  I actually thought it was very serene and beautiful, for now.  I checked my weather app and stood on the balcony a moment and decided the coast was clear.  I had better get out today or have another week of only to school and back.



paris-map-monuments.jpg
http://www.monument-paris.com/image/paris-map-monuments.jpg


I live in 18th arrondissement, Montmartre, which is north west of central Paris.  Each arrondissement has its own culture, history, and vibe.  I haven't been out too much so I can't really describe it for myself yet, but its kinda touristy and cozy at the same time (actually i think thats everywhere, there is always something to see).  I'll work on that.  



Anyhoo, I live around the corner from the Cimetière de Montmartre, but the entrance is a few block away (it is technically where Moulin Rouge is on the map).  There are famous poets and artist that I've never heard of buried here, but it was still interesting to see all of the graves some elaborate, some simple but maintained with love.  Please enjoy these pics from my day amongst the dead.  (Most of the names were worn away and hard to see so i don't know who anyone is).





















   
After leaving the cemetery, I thought I'd walk around and take the scenic route home.  And scenic it was!  



 I didn't realize I lived so close to the Moulin Rouge (Red Windmill). 



As I continued my journey I came across Cafe des 2 Moulin, made famous by the movie Amelie.


Not as well known, but this is Moulin de la Galette, (the second windmill of Cafe des 2 Moulin).  






Everything is beautiful here.  Going up and down hills and cobbled stone streets was not the best in slippers but I love walking, taking in the view.it was great just being surrounded by...Paris!